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If it’s your first time in a bouldering area, the terms bouldering problem and bouldering falling might seem a bit strange and scary. But don’t worry, it’s no danger at all. Bouldering problem is simply a term used to describe bouldering routes. By definition, it is a series of calculated moves that takes a boulderer to the top of a bouldering wall.
A boulder problem is typically about 3.5-5.0 meters high. One Essential characteristic of the bouldering problem is that boulderers are expected to navigate it without the use of rope, helmet, or any protective gear. In the gym, a distinct mark indicates the end of the bouldering problem. But if you are bouldering outside, you have to climb over the top before you can complete the exercise.
Why Is a Bouldering Route Called a “Problem?”
It is called a bouldering problem and not just a bouldering route because it is not a simple route you can easily walk through. Navigating through it does not just entail physical strength and resilience.
No, it takes some figuring out and you have to put your brains to work, almost as if you have a math problem right in front of you. Even before taking your first step, you have to study every detail of the problem and figure out the best way to solve it and avoid bouldering failing. And as you climb, you must remain calculative and agile, and ever ready to make changes to the game plan when necessary.
There are no strict rules to solving a bouldering problem. Different people will navigate through a particular bouldering wall differently depending on the person’s strength, size, and experience. A shorter person is more flexible and is more likely to move in different directions with less difficulty.
A stronger person, however, will find it easier to deal with sections where strength and endurance are required. At the end of the day, the primary objective is to avoid bouldering failing before getting to the top.
A typical boulder problem contains about 5-10 moves. The most difficult move is called the crux. This move is often the climax of every boulder problem. Quite often, people use bouldering problems and climbing routes interchangeably but these are two different terms. Bouldering problem is a lot shorter than climbing routes.
You can say that a problem is more like a smaller version of the climbing routes. Also, bouldering problems have more obstruction in its path with the crux, being the most challenging section.
What Are The Different Parts of a Boulder Problem
Every boulder problem is categorized into different parts. The first is the start which is often located at the base of the wall and indicated by starting holds. In some boulder problems, only one hold is provided for the climber. If this is the case, the climber is allowed to grab the hold with both hands.
However, in easier problems, two or more start holds are provided. The climber is also allowed to make use of any other hold at the same level as the start hold or any other hold below this level.
In the same way, one or more holds are provided for the feet depending on the level of difficulty of the problem. If only one hold is provided, you can keep your body stable by pressing the second foot on the wall. In some cases, there is a ‘seat start’ at the base of the boulder.
This seat start makes the job easier for the climber because you can sit on it before climbing if the start holds are too far away. Another way you can get off is by ‘stand starting’. To stand start, you can either stand on one or two feet and reach for the start hold with both hands. Last but not least is the jump start, a rare technique reserved only for the most experienced boulderers.
Reaching the Crux
After going through the start, the next step is to reach for the crux. The crux also known to be the climax is in-between the start and the finish. It is usually the most difficult part of a bouldering wall and as such requires technical skills. Once you can get through the crux, the rest of the problem becomes very easy.
Although most bouldering problems have just one crux, you might also find a few with multiple crux. After the crux comes the top hold. This top hold is the final part of a boulder problem and it marks the end of the bouldering exercise. When you get to this point, you are expected to grab the top holds with both hands and hold onto it for a few seconds.
Different Types of Boulder Problems
There are different types of bouldering problems and solving each of them requires a different strategy. Generally, to solve a Boulder problem, you must first study the problem and decide the best way to go about it in order to avoid bouldering failing.
The list of different types of boulder problems is a long one and we cannot address all of them. But for this article, we are going to discuss the most popular ones.
Slab Boulder Problem
The slab is one of the oldest and most popular type of boulder problems. The wall of a slab is vertical but slightly angled in the opposite direction from you. You could say it is tilted in the opposite direction.
This tilting makes it easier to climb because you can lift your weight off your feet and hands, and place it on the wall. Here, you also rely on your hands less and more on your feet. This type of boulder problem is best for training the feet technique.
Slabs have very tiny holes and therefore technical moves are required. It is not a particularly easy option even for the most experienced boulderers. It is not about how much strength you have because the slab does not allow you to power through any level. Instead, your only power lies in your ability to maneuver your feet.
The slab is referred to as the great leveler because it makes even the greatest boulderers appear more human. To get ahead of this problem, wear stiffer shoes because that is the only way to achieve better balance. Also, you should always shift your focus from the hand grip and place as much weight as possible on your feet.
For more tips on how to deal with a slap problem
Roof Boulder Problem
This type of Bouldering problem is found on walls parallel to the floor. It looks a lot like an overhang in that it focuses on the upper part of the body. But the difference between both of them is that in roof problems, you have to carry your entire body weight without relying on any wall for support.
Remember the way a spider man works his way through the ceiling without any support from the wall, that is the same way you are expected to make your way through the underneath of a horizontal plane. Roof problem is one of the most difficult types of bouldering, it requires a lot of core strength. It is only suitable for the strongest and most experienced boulderers.
To successfully get through a roof problem, always define your plans even before starting and consider what line of action to take at every point. While climbing, remain calm, and practice deep and focused breathing. This will allow you to conserve energy. Secondly, go for the good holds.
A hold is considered good if it is within your reach, and strong enough to hold down your weight while you reach for the next hold. However, you must remember that holds don’t look the same from below and it is easy to get confused if you are not careful.
For more tips and tricks
An arête Boulder Problem
This bouldering problem is just like climbing a corner. Think about it as though you are climbing the edge of a building. This type of problem requires different techniques and refined skills. Hence, a newbie might not be able to pull this one off.
To successfully solve this problem, your toe and heel hooks are your greatest asset. They give you something to hold onto, prevent you from losing your grip, and reduce the chances of bouldering failing.
Always be conscious of where your foot is at every point in time. Just like with every other bouldering problem, safety is of utmost importance.
Next, learn to lay back. Laying back every now and then presents a great holding position. If you are ever climbing an arête and you become confused about what step to take next, just lay down and your next step will reveal itself to you. Also, you must beware of barn dooring.
Barn dooring is a term used to describe lifting your weight off the center of your body and placing it on either of your legs.
When this happens, it causes you to swivel sideways off the wall. Barn dooring is often associated with arête because of the shape of the wall. Therefore, you must make a conscious effort to keep your weight in the center as you climb.
Here is what an arête looks like
Volume Only Boulder Problem
This is an interesting type of bouldering. It is usually seen in gyms and made up of triangle-shaped holds sticking out of the wall. These triangle-shaped holds are known as the volume. Sometimes, route setters design a problem made up of only volumes. Normal holds are not allowed here. It is a little unusual, but it is fun and challenging.
To solve volume-only boulder problems, here are important tips you must note: Move slowly, volume only boulder problems do not have obvious gripping parts so you might miss important details and risk bouldering failing if you rush through it.
Secondly, Keep an eye out for the edges because they make good holds and provide better balance.
Finally, make sure you are not standing too close to the wall. Standing far away from the wall will provide you with better balance and when you stand up, the space in-between your feet and the wall makes it easier for you to lean in rather than push yourself outwards.
Another helpful mechanism here is the push and pull. Push your hands and feet in the opposite direction of where you are headed. For instance, if you want to go up and left, push your hands down and right, and if you want to go down and right, push up and left. The importance of this mechanism is to acquire an increased momentum.
Here is what it looks like
Comp Wall Boulder Problem
Comp wall is more like a gym version of boulder routes found at international events and tournaments. It is a combination of different problems in a single wall. Comp wall boulder problems feature Coordination-based movements and gymnastics.
A successful comp wall boulderer has an interesting mix of dynamic movement and skillful balance. Comp wall boulder problem is a pretty tricky one but it is not entirely impossible to maneuver. Just remember to warm up your body properly, as you will be putting them through a lot of unusual positions.
Due to the complexity of this type of bouldering problem, the chances of bouldering failing are increased. Therefore, you should learn how to fall properly to minimize injury. There are different types of bouldering failing mechanisms out there but the best for any wall will depend majorly on the volume of the wall.
During climbing, you would want to stand closer to the wall but this is wrong. The closer you are to the wall, the greater the chances of Bouldering failing.
Another trick is to wear the correct shoes. The best shoes for a comp wall boulder are soft and flexible ones that would allow you to bend your feet and press on the holds. Additionally, if you want to excel at comp wall boulder problems, endeavor to remain calm and relaxed while you work your way through it.
It is easy to get nervous and jittery when you realize that everything isn’t going as planned. But I can assure you, once you start getting tensed, you are bound to fail because it ruins your sense of balance.
Here is what it looks like
Jump Boulder Problem
A jump problem just like the name indicates requires jumping from one hold to another. In this type of bouldering problem, the distance between two holds is usually too wide to climb, hence, you will need to jump.
In most boulder walls, the jump part is located at the start. But in some, the jump is located close to the top. In a jump problem, the focus is on jumping poweress and arm strength which are both essential for grabbing and holding.
Note that the jump problem is not the same as jumping down. Jumping down simply means exiting the bouldering wall. The best technique to adopt in this instance is called the soft fall.
For the soft fall, bend your knees slightly when it touches the ground. Then, propel yourself backward to roll either on your back or your bottom in order to fall on your hips. The essence of rolling immediately when you make contact with the floor is to absorb a large percentage of the impact force and reduce the chances of serious injury.
In the gym, there is always a thick mat provided for your landing and this might look like enough safety measure but in reality, improper landings on mats for a prolonged period can lead to short-term or long-term injury. To land safely on a mat, descend as low as you can before you jump. And when you jump, make sure you land with your feet flat on the floor, slightly apart and your knees slightly bent.
In conclusion, the boulder problem may not be a walk in the park but it is not rocket science either. Basically, all you are expected to do is to just climb a series of moves from bottom to top.
Frequently Asked Questions About Bouldering Problems
How Do You Finish a Boulder Problem?
To finish a boulder problem, you must climb from bottom to top and grab the finishing holds with your hands. Some bouldering walls mark the finishing hold with an inscription ‘TOP’. This inscription helps climbers to locate the top hold easily.
What is a Bouldering Problem?
By definition, a bouldering problem is a climbing route that does not make use of ropes. It is similar to other roped climbing routes but the major difference is that instead of ropes, bouldering problems make use of holds. Additionally, roped climbing routes are often longer than bouldering problems.
What is the Secret to Bouldering?
The most important secret to bouldering is to think before you move. Bouldering is not like every other climbing route where you just grab a rope and climb. Bouldering requires critical thinking and proper planning. Even before you touch the first hold, decide which foot or hand you are going to start with and in what order you will go about it.
